Abscesses!!
Yes our barn has been hit. There are several horses with abscesses right now, including Woody. When I pulled him out of his stall Wednesday evening, I noticed that he off on his right front and it made sense as it felt like he was slightly off Monday night on the same leg but he got better the longer we rode.
The farrier happened to be at the barn, so I took Woody over to see him and advised him of what was going on. He checked his pulse in the right front and everything seemed fine. He then check the pulse on his left hind and it was off. He advised that it was most likely an abscess, he has been seeing a lot of horses with him recently.
So I soaked his foot and Connie got me a package of Animalintex Hoof Poultice Pad, which were recommended by our farrier and worked on another mare in the barn that just got had an abscess. She put the pad on, put padding mostly on the bottom of the hoof and then vet wrapped it on.
I am hoping this abscess blows quickly and that it is just an abscess, not something else.
Christina
Showing posts with label horse care information. Show all posts
Showing posts with label horse care information. Show all posts
Friday, December 11, 2009
Monday, June 1, 2009
The Ultimate First Aid Kit...
The most my first aid kit has ever included in the past was been wound dressing, Epsom salt, vet wrap, iodine, alcohol and a few other various items. Most of it was purchased due to needing it versus being prepared for something that could happen. Though, when I was younger, I greatly depended on my trainer for supplies instead of actually having my own kit. Even when I first bought Woody, I didn't have much of anything and depended on my previous trainer for grooming and first aid supplies. But I am not one that really likes to borrow or use other people's things.
In the past I was fortunate to never have a horse emergency arise. I don't think anything went wrong with my first pony, besides the fact that he had heaves. My first QH abscessed at my first QH show. She later coliced slightly while she was at our house and while boarding at a friends she somehow punctured the inside of a back leg. My other QH mare also punctured herself in the neck, but neither wound was too deep to require anything more then being washed out.
Being the organized and prepared person that I am, I wanted to make sure that I had a complete first aid kit just in case something was to ever happen. Before I went out and bought a whole bunch of stuff, I wanted to make sure I got the right stuff and nothing that could be used for the same thing. I looked at the prepackaged first aid kits, that can be quite pricey depending on which one you purchase. I asked individuals on the couple forums I frequent what they kept in their first aid kits as well. The good thing about the responses on the forums, is that people will tell you things that you can use around your house when there is an emergency. I also came across a good first aid article. Now my no means am I a vet, but here is a list of things that should be included in your first aid kit. I will also get into some measures and steps to take in case something should happen to your horse, but hopefully nothing will ever.
A tool box, like the one pictured above, is a handy and organized way to keep all the supplies together!
Prescriptions
These medicines should not be used unless you have consulted with a vet, but in an emergency situation it is good to have them on hand so your horse does not need to wait. Here is a helpful medicine chart that lists the commonly administered drugs and what they do.
-Bute - anti-inflammatory
-Banamine - anti-inflammatory; used for colic episodes
-Ace - tranquilizer
-Dormosadan - sedative
-Surpass - topical anti-inflammatory; helpful to reduce swelling
-SMZ's - anti-bacterial tablets for infections
-Prednisone tabs - corticosteroid; helps to reduce swelling, redness, itching, and allergic reactions and can be used to treat severe allergies, skin problems, asthma, arthritis.
-Hydrocortisone (Cortizone) - steroid used to help promote the temporary relief of itching or minor skin irritations, inflammations and rashes due to flea and tick bites, scraps, abrasions and allergies.
-Penicillin - antibiotic
Salves & Wound Dressings
There are many different types of ointments on the market so everyone is going to have a favorite. I am listing some of the more commonly used ones, there is no need to have everything on this list. These are used on cuts, scraps, irritations, abrasions, etc.
-Farnam Tri-Care 3-Way - I think is the absolutely the best stuff out there. I use this on all of Woody's nips and cuts he gets while out in the field. It heals cuts and grows back hair in no time at all. He had a small cut on one of his legs before one of the shows we went too. I kept forgetting to put this stuff on it and it seemed like the hair was not growing back at all. As soon as I started applying it the hair came back very quick.
-Corona Antiseptic Ointment - I also have this, but think the Tri-Care works much better.
-Nolvasan Ointment - An antibacterial and anti fungal ointment for use as a topical antiseptic ointment for surface wounds.
-Triple Antibiotic Skin Ointment (Neosporin)
-Zinc Oxide Cream (Desitin) - Helps to soothe and protect sunburned noses, helps to clear up grease heel and protect and heal minor cuts and scrapes
-Swat - One should never not have enough swat during fly season with any type of wounds that are healing.
-Derma-Gel
-Underwood Spray - Topical wound spray for minor and major cuts, punctures, rips and tears of flesh. Many people swear by this stuff. If you do a Google search you can see before and after pictures when this has been used.
-Ichthammol (Black Salve) - Topical salve for wounds, dry hooves, skin irritations. Also acts as a topical antiseptic to draw out infection, abcesses, etc
-MTG - use for rain rot, scratches, bug bites, girth itch, to promote hair growth, chewed tails, etc
Everything else
-Eye wash/antibiotic (ophthalmic polysporin)
-Sterile Saline Solution - for wound or eye irrigation
-Povidone Iodine Solution - for cleaning wounds, skin infections, thrush, etc
-Betadine Solution - kills bacteria, fungus and viruses
-Sanitizing Towelettes
-4" x 4" Gauze pads/Sanitary Napkins/Diapers - wound dressings
-Sheet Cotton (BB Satin Star) - used under bandages and for wounds
-Gamgee Pad - used as a wound dressing for infected and discharging wounds as well as wound padding. Can be used as a leg wrap for protection as well.
-Vet wrap/Elastikon - out most layer of bandage
-Animalintex - poultice pad and wound dressing
-Poultice (Numotizine) - inflammation
-Liniment
-Wraps and pillow wraps
-Horse-size blanket
-Plastic wrap
-Epsom Salt - soaking hoof abscess/infections
-Duct Tape - many various uses, should never be without! Use for making hoof bandage or pressure wrap in severe bleeding
-Electrolyte paste - dehydration
-Pobiotic past - stomach/diarrhea
-Vaseline / Petroleum Jelly
-Instant Ice Pack
-Clean towels
-Turkey baster/larger syringe for irrigation
-Box Syringes & needles
-Latex Tourniquet - for emergency bleeding control only
-Tongue depressor (to apply antibiotics and ointments)
-Thermometer w/ string
-Stethoscope
-Scissors / Wrap Cutter
-Jointed pliers/Wire cutter
-Hoof pick
-Twitch
-Latex gloves
-Ziploc bags
-Flashlight
-Vet Record Binder
-Note pad, pen and pencil
-Copies of "Colic: Minimizing Its Incidence and Impact in Your Horse"; "Guidelines to Follow During Equine Emergencies"; and "Lameness Exams: Evaluating the Lame Horse."
Horse Vital Signs
You should also have basic health information for your horse written down and kept with your supplies. This information includes your horse's normal temperature, pulse and respiration (TPR) rates. To establish what a normal baseline for your horse is, take these measurements for three days, and have them handy in case you need to compare them to your horse's TPR rates when injured. This is a handy chart that you can print out and keep with your supplies in case you can’t remember what the readings should be.
Temperature:
To take your horse's temperature, insert a well-lubricated thermometer into your horse's anus about two inches, making sure that you are not inserting it into manure as it has a higher temperature in the middle. Wait approximately two minutes, remove and record the temperature. A trick is to tie a string to the end of the thermometer before taking the temperature so the thermometer doesn't get sucked in when the horse tightens the rectual muscles.
-Normal = 99.5 - 101 F
-Bacteria Infection = 102.5 - 103.5 F
-Viral Infection = 104.4 F & up (might be slightly below normal if in the early stage of the infection)
Pulse:
A normal pulse range is 30 to 40 beats (one 'bum-bum' is one full beat). Use either your stethoscope to listen for a pulse, or your index and middle finger to feel a pulse in any one of the following areas: back edge of lower jaw, inner surface of the groove under the jaw, inside the elbow, up and forward against the chest wall, under the tail, close to the body or the inside or outside pastern.
Respiration:
You need to observe and count the regular rise and fall of your horse's flanks. The average horse breathes between 8 and 20 times per minute. Try to get a respiration count when your horses is not sniffing or excited but calm and rested.
Capillary Refill:
Pressure-blanche a spot on the horse’s gum just above the corner incisor. Remove our thumb and count the seconds it takes for color to return.
-Normal = about 2 mins after pressing for 2 secs.
Dehydration:
Pinch skin at base of neck & hold for 2 secs - skin should return to 100% normal very quickly & not "tent-up" at all.
When to Call Your Vet
If your horse shows any of these signs, call the vet right away for instructions:
-A wound pulsing blood
-Seizures
-Unusual behavior such as listlessness, depression, staggering or shivering
-Diarrhea that is not the result of nervous excitement
-Pulse different from horse’s normal, even when resting
-Straining to urinate of defecate
-Coffee- or blood-colored urine or leaking urine
-Puncture wound that is oozing, hot to the touch or swollen
-Persistent cough
-Rolling, biting or kicking at flanks (may indicate colic)
Before calling your vet, make your horse as comfortable as possible and get his TPR, if possible to do so safely. Be prepared to answer questions that your vet may ask about feed, water regular habits and the color of your horse's gums. Normal color of horses gum's is a healthy pink. Differences in that color could indicate the following conditions, and should be reported to your vet:
-Very pale or white gums could indicate anemia or blood loss
-Bright red gums could indicate a toxic or poisonous condition
-Gray or blue gums could indicate shock
-Bright yellow gums are linked with liver problems
Remain calm, try not to move quick or erratically as this may upset your horse even more.
Basic First Aid for Minor Injuries
The majority of horse injuries do not even need to be seen by a vet. Depending on the type of wound or injury, there are some basic first aid steps that can be taken at the barn.
Generally the steps for wound care are to stop the bleeding, clean the wound, treat it with antiseptic ointment and then monitor. A good indication of the severity of the wound is the bleeding. A wound that is slowly oozing blood means that only the outside is affected. Pulsing blood can mean that an artery has been affected, but if a vein is affected blood flow can either be rapid or oozing. Deep wounds that involve tendons or exposed bone will often cause moderate to very heavy bleeding. To stop bleeding, restrain your horse and try to keep him calm. Use diapers or sanitary napkins and apply pressure to the wound for 15 minutes, or until the wound stops bleeding. Do not wipe a wound that has stopped bleeding, as this could dislodge the clot and cause more bleeding. Do not pour hydrogen peroxide on a wound; although many horse owners say that peroxide will clean a wound better, peroxide can also damage healthy tissue and make bleeding more difficult to control.
Cold-hosing a wound after the bleeding has stopped is a good way to not only clean the wound thoroughly but to also reduce or prevent swelling to the area. For minor wounds, an antiseptic ointment may be applied, but larger wounds, deeper wounds, or wounds that occur in a highly mobile, hard-to-heal area, such as the shoulder, may need a vet’s evaluation and treatment.
Wounds can either be bandaged or left open; generally, bandaging a minor wound on the lower extremities will keep it clean and free of debris, but it is not required. Close monitoring and daily application of antiseptic cream, along with application of cold treatments (cold-hosing or ice-packs) for swelling seem to be what is most often successful. If you do bandage a wound, do not leave it in place for longer than 24 hours at a time (unless directed by your vet), and when bandaging a leg it is a good idea to bandage the other leg as well, so strain will not be placed on the uninjured limb.
Types of Wounds
A brief overview of different types of wounds and how to treat. I have included pictures of some.
Abrasions
These are scratches on the horse that do not go deeper than the surface layers of the skin; most abrasions are a result of branches, stray metal objects or a fence in need of maintenance. The first step to caring for these is to keep your horse’s pasture or stall clear of debris and check fences and stalls for splinters and nails.
Incisions
Incisions are almost like a knife cut; they have no ragged edges and are usually made by very sharp objects (e.g. nails and metal fences). Depending on how deep the incision is, or where it is located you may need to call the vet, but generally you can pack the wound with antiseptic ointment and check it daily.
Lacerations
Wounds that are made by dull objects result in not only the cutting of skin but also tearing; these are called lacerations. Lacerations may have jagged edges and may contain debris. If you see something in the wound, it is best to call and consult with your vet before treatment (although you can cold hose the wound after the bleeding has stopped).
Punctures
Punctures are sometimes difficult to diagnose. These are wounds that are caused by a sharp objects poking the horse sometimes very deeply (and the object may still be embedded in the wound). What appears to be a superficial wound may begin to swell and become hot to the touch after a few days. As with lacerations, do not remove any objects you see by yourself; call the vet and consult. If there is nothing in the wound, care for it as you would other wounds by stopping the bleeding, cold hosing and applying antiseptic cream.
Avulsions
Avulsions are wounds indicated by tearing and a loose flap of skin. Generally these wounds require sutures to close, but if the skin is completely removed, treat the wound as you would other wounds.
Always keep a close eye on any injuries you treat yourself; if a wound gets hot or painful to the touch, or begins to ooze foul secretions, call your vet immediately, as this could be a sign of infection. Try to keep your horse calm and rested immediately after treating an injury, and then use good judgment when turning him back out to pasture. Horse who are not used to being stalled may be better off back in the pasture immediately after treatment, but do use caution and common sense, monitor him closely.
Home Remedies
There are things around the house that can be used on your horse! Here are just a few:
-Scarlet Oil- great for skin abrasions and fungus
-Suga-dine - Sugar mixed with Iodine, which is great for packing wounds or abscessed feet; no bacteria can grow in it
-Natural Wound Remedy - aloe vera lotion, frankincense oil, tea tree oil and vitamin e oil mixed together; helps the healing process along with getting hair growth
-Tea Tree Oil - use for dermatitis on legs (cannon crud); mix 7-10 drops of it in water in a small squirt bottle; also can make a wound dressing mixing 10:1 olive oil to tea tree oil.
Remember I am not vet, I just did some research on what I thought was needed and decided to add some additional information about first aid as well. If there is something I stated incorrectly, please let me know!
Christina
In the past I was fortunate to never have a horse emergency arise. I don't think anything went wrong with my first pony, besides the fact that he had heaves. My first QH abscessed at my first QH show. She later coliced slightly while she was at our house and while boarding at a friends she somehow punctured the inside of a back leg. My other QH mare also punctured herself in the neck, but neither wound was too deep to require anything more then being washed out.
Being the organized and prepared person that I am, I wanted to make sure that I had a complete first aid kit just in case something was to ever happen. Before I went out and bought a whole bunch of stuff, I wanted to make sure I got the right stuff and nothing that could be used for the same thing. I looked at the prepackaged first aid kits, that can be quite pricey depending on which one you purchase. I asked individuals on the couple forums I frequent what they kept in their first aid kits as well. The good thing about the responses on the forums, is that people will tell you things that you can use around your house when there is an emergency. I also came across a good first aid article. Now my no means am I a vet, but here is a list of things that should be included in your first aid kit. I will also get into some measures and steps to take in case something should happen to your horse, but hopefully nothing will ever.
A tool box, like the one pictured above, is a handy and organized way to keep all the supplies together!Prescriptions
These medicines should not be used unless you have consulted with a vet, but in an emergency situation it is good to have them on hand so your horse does not need to wait. Here is a helpful medicine chart that lists the commonly administered drugs and what they do.
-Bute - anti-inflammatory
-Banamine - anti-inflammatory; used for colic episodes
-Ace - tranquilizer
-Dormosadan - sedative
-Surpass - topical anti-inflammatory; helpful to reduce swelling
-SMZ's - anti-bacterial tablets for infections
-Prednisone tabs - corticosteroid; helps to reduce swelling, redness, itching, and allergic reactions and can be used to treat severe allergies, skin problems, asthma, arthritis.
-Hydrocortisone (Cortizone) - steroid used to help promote the temporary relief of itching or minor skin irritations, inflammations and rashes due to flea and tick bites, scraps, abrasions and allergies.
-Penicillin - antibiotic
Salves & Wound Dressings
There are many different types of ointments on the market so everyone is going to have a favorite. I am listing some of the more commonly used ones, there is no need to have everything on this list. These are used on cuts, scraps, irritations, abrasions, etc.
-Farnam Tri-Care 3-Way - I think is the absolutely the best stuff out there. I use this on all of Woody's nips and cuts he gets while out in the field. It heals cuts and grows back hair in no time at all. He had a small cut on one of his legs before one of the shows we went too. I kept forgetting to put this stuff on it and it seemed like the hair was not growing back at all. As soon as I started applying it the hair came back very quick.
-Corona Antiseptic Ointment - I also have this, but think the Tri-Care works much better.
-Nolvasan Ointment - An antibacterial and anti fungal ointment for use as a topical antiseptic ointment for surface wounds.
-Triple Antibiotic Skin Ointment (Neosporin)
-Zinc Oxide Cream (Desitin) - Helps to soothe and protect sunburned noses, helps to clear up grease heel and protect and heal minor cuts and scrapes
-Swat - One should never not have enough swat during fly season with any type of wounds that are healing.
-Derma-Gel
-Underwood Spray - Topical wound spray for minor and major cuts, punctures, rips and tears of flesh. Many people swear by this stuff. If you do a Google search you can see before and after pictures when this has been used.
-Ichthammol (Black Salve) - Topical salve for wounds, dry hooves, skin irritations. Also acts as a topical antiseptic to draw out infection, abcesses, etc
-MTG - use for rain rot, scratches, bug bites, girth itch, to promote hair growth, chewed tails, etc
Everything else
-Eye wash/antibiotic (ophthalmic polysporin)
-Sterile Saline Solution - for wound or eye irrigation
-Povidone Iodine Solution - for cleaning wounds, skin infections, thrush, etc
-Betadine Solution - kills bacteria, fungus and viruses
-Sanitizing Towelettes
-4" x 4" Gauze pads/Sanitary Napkins/Diapers - wound dressings
-Sheet Cotton (BB Satin Star) - used under bandages and for wounds
-Gamgee Pad - used as a wound dressing for infected and discharging wounds as well as wound padding. Can be used as a leg wrap for protection as well.
-Vet wrap/Elastikon - out most layer of bandage
-Animalintex - poultice pad and wound dressing
-Poultice (Numotizine) - inflammation
-Liniment
-Wraps and pillow wraps
-Horse-size blanket
-Plastic wrap
-Epsom Salt - soaking hoof abscess/infections
-Duct Tape - many various uses, should never be without! Use for making hoof bandage or pressure wrap in severe bleeding
-Electrolyte paste - dehydration
-Pobiotic past - stomach/diarrhea
-Vaseline / Petroleum Jelly
-Instant Ice Pack
-Clean towels
-Turkey baster/larger syringe for irrigation
-Box Syringes & needles
-Latex Tourniquet - for emergency bleeding control only
-Tongue depressor (to apply antibiotics and ointments)
-Thermometer w/ string
-Stethoscope
-Scissors / Wrap Cutter
-Jointed pliers/Wire cutter
-Hoof pick
-Twitch
-Latex gloves
-Ziploc bags
-Flashlight
-Vet Record Binder
-Note pad, pen and pencil
-Copies of "Colic: Minimizing Its Incidence and Impact in Your Horse"; "Guidelines to Follow During Equine Emergencies"; and "Lameness Exams: Evaluating the Lame Horse."
Horse Vital Signs
You should also have basic health information for your horse written down and kept with your supplies. This information includes your horse's normal temperature, pulse and respiration (TPR) rates. To establish what a normal baseline for your horse is, take these measurements for three days, and have them handy in case you need to compare them to your horse's TPR rates when injured. This is a handy chart that you can print out and keep with your supplies in case you can’t remember what the readings should be.
Temperature:
To take your horse's temperature, insert a well-lubricated thermometer into your horse's anus about two inches, making sure that you are not inserting it into manure as it has a higher temperature in the middle. Wait approximately two minutes, remove and record the temperature. A trick is to tie a string to the end of the thermometer before taking the temperature so the thermometer doesn't get sucked in when the horse tightens the rectual muscles.
-Normal = 99.5 - 101 F
-Bacteria Infection = 102.5 - 103.5 F
-Viral Infection = 104.4 F & up (might be slightly below normal if in the early stage of the infection)
Pulse:
A normal pulse range is 30 to 40 beats (one 'bum-bum' is one full beat). Use either your stethoscope to listen for a pulse, or your index and middle finger to feel a pulse in any one of the following areas: back edge of lower jaw, inner surface of the groove under the jaw, inside the elbow, up and forward against the chest wall, under the tail, close to the body or the inside or outside pastern.
Respiration:
You need to observe and count the regular rise and fall of your horse's flanks. The average horse breathes between 8 and 20 times per minute. Try to get a respiration count when your horses is not sniffing or excited but calm and rested.
Capillary Refill:
Pressure-blanche a spot on the horse’s gum just above the corner incisor. Remove our thumb and count the seconds it takes for color to return.
-Normal = about 2 mins after pressing for 2 secs.
Dehydration:
Pinch skin at base of neck & hold for 2 secs - skin should return to 100% normal very quickly & not "tent-up" at all.
When to Call Your Vet
If your horse shows any of these signs, call the vet right away for instructions:
-A wound pulsing blood
-Seizures
-Unusual behavior such as listlessness, depression, staggering or shivering
-Diarrhea that is not the result of nervous excitement
-Pulse different from horse’s normal, even when resting
-Straining to urinate of defecate
-Coffee- or blood-colored urine or leaking urine
-Puncture wound that is oozing, hot to the touch or swollen
-Persistent cough
-Rolling, biting or kicking at flanks (may indicate colic)
Before calling your vet, make your horse as comfortable as possible and get his TPR, if possible to do so safely. Be prepared to answer questions that your vet may ask about feed, water regular habits and the color of your horse's gums. Normal color of horses gum's is a healthy pink. Differences in that color could indicate the following conditions, and should be reported to your vet:
-Very pale or white gums could indicate anemia or blood loss
-Bright red gums could indicate a toxic or poisonous condition
-Gray or blue gums could indicate shock
-Bright yellow gums are linked with liver problems
Remain calm, try not to move quick or erratically as this may upset your horse even more.
Basic First Aid for Minor Injuries
The majority of horse injuries do not even need to be seen by a vet. Depending on the type of wound or injury, there are some basic first aid steps that can be taken at the barn.
Generally the steps for wound care are to stop the bleeding, clean the wound, treat it with antiseptic ointment and then monitor. A good indication of the severity of the wound is the bleeding. A wound that is slowly oozing blood means that only the outside is affected. Pulsing blood can mean that an artery has been affected, but if a vein is affected blood flow can either be rapid or oozing. Deep wounds that involve tendons or exposed bone will often cause moderate to very heavy bleeding. To stop bleeding, restrain your horse and try to keep him calm. Use diapers or sanitary napkins and apply pressure to the wound for 15 minutes, or until the wound stops bleeding. Do not wipe a wound that has stopped bleeding, as this could dislodge the clot and cause more bleeding. Do not pour hydrogen peroxide on a wound; although many horse owners say that peroxide will clean a wound better, peroxide can also damage healthy tissue and make bleeding more difficult to control.
Cold-hosing a wound after the bleeding has stopped is a good way to not only clean the wound thoroughly but to also reduce or prevent swelling to the area. For minor wounds, an antiseptic ointment may be applied, but larger wounds, deeper wounds, or wounds that occur in a highly mobile, hard-to-heal area, such as the shoulder, may need a vet’s evaluation and treatment.
Wounds can either be bandaged or left open; generally, bandaging a minor wound on the lower extremities will keep it clean and free of debris, but it is not required. Close monitoring and daily application of antiseptic cream, along with application of cold treatments (cold-hosing or ice-packs) for swelling seem to be what is most often successful. If you do bandage a wound, do not leave it in place for longer than 24 hours at a time (unless directed by your vet), and when bandaging a leg it is a good idea to bandage the other leg as well, so strain will not be placed on the uninjured limb.
Types of Wounds
A brief overview of different types of wounds and how to treat. I have included pictures of some.
Abrasions
These are scratches on the horse that do not go deeper than the surface layers of the skin; most abrasions are a result of branches, stray metal objects or a fence in need of maintenance. The first step to caring for these is to keep your horse’s pasture or stall clear of debris and check fences and stalls for splinters and nails.
Incisions
Incisions are almost like a knife cut; they have no ragged edges and are usually made by very sharp objects (e.g. nails and metal fences). Depending on how deep the incision is, or where it is located you may need to call the vet, but generally you can pack the wound with antiseptic ointment and check it daily.
Lacerations
Wounds that are made by dull objects result in not only the cutting of skin but also tearing; these are called lacerations. Lacerations may have jagged edges and may contain debris. If you see something in the wound, it is best to call and consult with your vet before treatment (although you can cold hose the wound after the bleeding has stopped).
Punctures
Punctures are sometimes difficult to diagnose. These are wounds that are caused by a sharp objects poking the horse sometimes very deeply (and the object may still be embedded in the wound). What appears to be a superficial wound may begin to swell and become hot to the touch after a few days. As with lacerations, do not remove any objects you see by yourself; call the vet and consult. If there is nothing in the wound, care for it as you would other wounds by stopping the bleeding, cold hosing and applying antiseptic cream.
Avulsions
Avulsions are wounds indicated by tearing and a loose flap of skin. Generally these wounds require sutures to close, but if the skin is completely removed, treat the wound as you would other wounds.
Always keep a close eye on any injuries you treat yourself; if a wound gets hot or painful to the touch, or begins to ooze foul secretions, call your vet immediately, as this could be a sign of infection. Try to keep your horse calm and rested immediately after treating an injury, and then use good judgment when turning him back out to pasture. Horse who are not used to being stalled may be better off back in the pasture immediately after treatment, but do use caution and common sense, monitor him closely.
Home Remedies
There are things around the house that can be used on your horse! Here are just a few:
-Scarlet Oil- great for skin abrasions and fungus
-Suga-dine - Sugar mixed with Iodine, which is great for packing wounds or abscessed feet; no bacteria can grow in it
-Natural Wound Remedy - aloe vera lotion, frankincense oil, tea tree oil and vitamin e oil mixed together; helps the healing process along with getting hair growth
-Tea Tree Oil - use for dermatitis on legs (cannon crud); mix 7-10 drops of it in water in a small squirt bottle; also can make a wound dressing mixing 10:1 olive oil to tea tree oil.
Remember I am not vet, I just did some research on what I thought was needed and decided to add some additional information about first aid as well. If there is something I stated incorrectly, please let me know!
Christina
Friday, January 9, 2009
Happy New Year!!!
Well, things haven't been that great with Woody lately. Our last good ride together was my lesson with Connie. Since then he seems to be getting even more sore. The last couple times I rode him, he ended up bucking frequently, I am assuming he is doing this due to his back being sore.
On Monday I went out and just longed him to see how he was moving. To me it looked like he was more limping then short stepping in the rear. Made me think more and more that he may in fact not have PSSM and there is another issue that needs to be faced. So instead of riding I practiced a little showmanship, which he seems to be picking up quite well. I think he finally has setting up down pretty well to the point that when he stops he is automatically squaring up.
On Wednesday Connie was there and wanted to see how he was moving. He didn't look as bad as I thought he did on Monday, and she even thought that he didn't seem that sore when she tested him. I told her about my conversation with the vet and the suggestion on giving him bute before I ride to see if it is a pain problem or if it is neurological. She advised against the bute since it can be harsh on the horses stomach and instead suggested B-L Solution. So I have the job of hunting if down in our area so we can give it a try to see if it helps him any. She also suggested riding him bare back to see if he acts the same way without a saddle on. So it looks as if I will brave riding bare back when I go out to ride tomorrow, should be interesting since I haven't done this since I was a kid.
Wish me luck!
Christina
On Monday I went out and just longed him to see how he was moving. To me it looked like he was more limping then short stepping in the rear. Made me think more and more that he may in fact not have PSSM and there is another issue that needs to be faced. So instead of riding I practiced a little showmanship, which he seems to be picking up quite well. I think he finally has setting up down pretty well to the point that when he stops he is automatically squaring up.
On Wednesday Connie was there and wanted to see how he was moving. He didn't look as bad as I thought he did on Monday, and she even thought that he didn't seem that sore when she tested him. I told her about my conversation with the vet and the suggestion on giving him bute before I ride to see if it is a pain problem or if it is neurological. She advised against the bute since it can be harsh on the horses stomach and instead suggested B-L Solution. So I have the job of hunting if down in our area so we can give it a try to see if it helps him any. She also suggested riding him bare back to see if he acts the same way without a saddle on. So it looks as if I will brave riding bare back when I go out to ride tomorrow, should be interesting since I haven't done this since I was a kid.
Wish me luck!
Christina
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